Quirky Haven

The Age

Saturday October 4, 2008

Megan Byrne

The Albany is a colourful boutique hotel nicely situated to take in the best of the city, says Megan Byrne.

It is a blustery Friday evening when I arrive, a little apprehensive, at the Albany Hotel. Since I booked a room here, I have been reading the mix of reviews on the internet. There is talk of dark, dimly lit corridors leading to the rooms, of the rooms not looking a thing like the photos and of altercations with staff.

But the reality couldn't be more different. From the moment I step up to reception the staff are cheerful and friendly. I look around at the delightfully quirky interior: black-and-white striped walls, wicker couches with bright red cushions, and a giant photo of Mick Jagger.

The route to my executive room on the second floor takes me past walls painted bright orange and pink, or papered with black and white photos of models, musicians and film stars.

The room is - as the net reviewers warned - nothing like the pictures. It's better.

It is not until later that I discover the website is actually out of date. Gone now are the lush-looking cream walls and linen I was expecting, but I have to say, I like the alternative.

A black and white montage of the rich and famous, similar to the corridor walls, forms the bed head. The bed itself has chunky cushions and a pink-and-orange striped rug. There are Vogue magazines on the desk and one of those red-cushioned wicker armchairs sits in the room. Who would choose sedate cream and beige over this?

Shortly afterwards my companion arrives, and we settle in to watch a movie over a glass of wine and - after a couple of guilty, greedy glances - a chocolate from the minibar. Tomorrow night we are off to a ball, but for now, we are content to relax.

The next day before the ball is free so I stroll through Melbourne's streets, umbrella in hand, scarf knotted at the neck. Trams may be a Melbourne icon, but forgoing them in favour of a leisurely walk is highly recommended.

I walk down St Kilda Road happy but within moments an icy wind has picked up and the gentle, wispy rain is rapidly coalescing into fat drops. I think back to the undecided British couple I passed in the hotel foyer as I was leaving and hope they took my advice and brought their umbrella, too.

The fat rain is now a steady downpour, so I take shelter in the National Gallery. While the Art Deco exhibit begs my attention, the lengthy queue quickly changes my mind. Instead, I spend a happy hour wandering through various rooms.

With my stomach grumbling, I head to a favourite Southbank haunt, the Blue Train Cafe. Paying homage to a friend living interstate, I order our standard fare: Bircher muesli and a soy chai latte.

Next stop is the Immigration Museum, a place I've long wanted to visit. It is humbling to learn of the hardships faced and sacrifices made by so many in their efforts to start a new life.

But the real highlight is the display of kimonos from Osaka Museum in Japan. The colours and designs are incredible. I find myself missing company - there is an opportunity to dress up in kimonos, but I have no one to help tie my obi or take silly photos.

With the afternoon now rapidly disappearing, I head back down Flinders Street, weave through the crowds pouring out of the station and again pass up a tram ride in favour of a stroll.

Half an hour later I am back at our quirky hotel, washing away the cold and the rain with a lovely hot shower before beginning the lengthy process that is dressing for the ball.

Then, dressed and ready, we head downstairs to make use of the hotel's free taxi service - a 1973 Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow.

After a late night we are in a bit of a rush to meet the 10am checkout the next day but eventually we sit down for another continental breakfast - the raspberry muffins are delicious.

As we leave, I am grateful to learn that the Albany's website will soon show it as it really is: a colourful, slightly zany boutique motel. Good riddance to pretensions of opulence.

With one last smile at the quirky decor and a quick photo of the Rolls, we are gone. But we'll be back.

VISITORS' BOOK

The Albany Hotel

Address Corner Toorak Road and Millswyn Street, South Yarra.

Bookings 9866 4485.

Getting there Tram 8 to South Yarra from Flinders Street Station/Federation Square. Get off at Fawkner Park.

How much $225 for a standard room to $385 for a two-bedroom apartment.

Summary Colourful, '60s-themed boutique motel with easy access to the best of Melbourne but a little overpriced.

Verdict 16

The score: 19-20 excellent; 17-18 great; 15-16 good; 13-14 comfortable, well run.

All weekends away are conducted anonymously and paid for.

© 2008 The Age

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